-Yes, the ferry is actually attched to a wire. After enjoying a few deep breaths of archiplagic air, you're on the island facing a sign saying Welcome to Högmarsö, relax and take it easy--you're here now.

The ferry has a unique history and serves as an expression of the energy that the inhabitants of the island has fought and worked so hard for—especially during the 1960s. Conflicts regarding the docking areas for the ferry made the discussions drawn-out. Stockholms Transport och Bogserings AB—owner of the ship yard on the island as well as Furusunds Slip—initiated the discussions to link the island to the mainland through a ferry. In the early 1960s, tough negotiations with the county and the National Road Administration office were started, and the issue was later brought up in the Supreme Court. These negotiations lead to the introduction of the ferry in 1970—a ferry that has served as a link between the island and the mainland ever since.

There was no doubt that the ferry was much needed, which soon after its introduction became evident. The problem was that it was too small. In 1979, an eagerly awaited larger ferry was introduced. Its 27 meter long deck had room for at least 12 cars, a heated passenger cabin and later, a steering tower for the captain was built to increase the safety of the passengers. This ferry still operates on the 900 meter long route between Högmarsö and Svartnö. In the 1890s, Högmarsö had a daily ferry connection with Stockholm and in 1930, the trips were increased to three to four a day, but along with the depopulation in the archipelago, the trips became fewer. It was Waxholmsbolaget’s ferrys—Rex and Norrtelje—who tied up at Högmarsö, and the latter is currently a café in Norrtälje. The ferry connection was disrupted in the late 1950s, after the construction of the Furusund Bridge.

Högmarsö has been populated by archipelago farmers ever since Gustav Vasa ruled, and if you go back to the late 1800s a beak-whale was chased into the north-east bay and run ashore. Jonas Petter Elfving harpooned the whale. He was also the man who founded Furusunds Slip- and Varfs AB on Högmarsö 1876. The reason why the company was allowed its name was that several of the stakeholders were people of high influence from the nearby Furusund. J.P. Elfving became the shipyard’s first ship builder, but initially not many ship were built. Instead, the ship yard was used to equip and repair larger ships, thus becoming a centre of sailing and shipping in Roslagen.

When the shipyard was founded, the island’s population lived off its 14 acres of cultivated soil and had its cows on summer pasture on one of the surrounding islets. The annual lease for the shipyard was a barrel of rye. Jonas Petter had many children, and there are still descendants living on the island. During that time, the shipyard also had a shipping company and the fleet included Alma, Hoppet, and CF Ivers. Among the ships built on Högmarsö around the turn to the 20th century were the yacht Salmi and the three-masted ship Beatrice. The timber used to build Beatrice was gathered on Svartnö, Högmarsö and Hemmarö. The 65 feet long logs were cut in a frame saw and the masts taken from the Lögla forrest had no joints. Beatrice slid of the shipyard’s rail in 1904.
The shipyard on Högmarsö dates back a long time. Round the turn of the century, over 100 men were employed here and there were over 350 permanent residents on the island. Högmarsö also had a school, several stores, and four farms. During these blooming days of the shipyard, several families with religious interests moved to the island and the question of building a missionary was soon brought up. Since several of the newly arrived families belonged to the Swedish Missionary Association, alliances with the Fosterlandsstiftelsen were soon formed. The mormons were at this time active on the island and this might have contributed to the interest shown by other associations, which later resulted in mergers and partnerships. The Högmarsö chapel was built between 1912 and 1914. The chapel served many purposes and included a school, a sewing club, a song- and music club, and a small quire led by the school teacher. In 1966, Länna Kyrkoråd took over the chapel and in 1973, the first steeple was built. The steeple was a donation from one of the summer guests on the island, and it has two bells—one was a gift from the Museum of Nautical History and the other was donated by Transportbolaget and Högmarsö Shipyard. The shipyard also donated the large anchor that has been put next to the steeple.

In 1920, the shipyard was overtaken by Stockholm Transport and Bogserings AB. Between the years 1930 to 1935 the depression took a toll on the shipyard, which during these years only had six months of work in a year. But in 1938 times had changed and through the governmental inspection of ships with occupational purpose, many job opportunities arose. In addition to the inspections, Transportbolaget also dealt with barges and towingships. During the 1950s, the shipyard headed towards an uncertain future. In the newspapers, people read about how a discontinued shipyard threatened the future of an entire island and rumours said that Transportbolaget would disontinue its Baltic Sea operations in 1958. Högmarsö started to depopulate and compared to the 360 permanent residents in 1945, there are now only 142. The largest drop in the islands population occured when a group of mormones—about 20 of them—migrated to Salt Lake City, United States (Source: Morgonbladet, November 1^st, 1957).

In the early 1960s things started looking brighter again and in the newspaper Norrtelje Tidning on December 15^th, 1961, people read that the largest shipyard in Roslagen—the one on Hömarsö—needed labor. This was a sign that the rumours of liquidation were far from true. The staff at the shipyard had their hands full with building a new dock and foundation, and there were room for another ten workers. The problem at this time was to get people and ground shipments to the island since no road connection between the island and the mainland existed. In 1965, the shipyard had 17 employees. During its days of glory, Högmarsö had several significant ship builders, including Yachtvarvet, Malms Varv by “Skolviken” and the boatbuilders workshop at Jarsnäset on the west side of the island right by Högmarsö Brygga.

Prior to 1913, the island had no school. Instead, the Elfving family rowed the children over to Svartnö, and from there, they walked the rest of the way to school. Usually there were about 10-12 children in the boat. It was Matilda Elfving who started the school on Högmarsö, and initially it was just a part of a residence, close to Folkets Hus. At this house, lectures were held on the porch outside or in the room just inside. During the 1920s, the school had around 60 students on average, and eventually (1930) a school house was built in what later became ”Skolviken”. The children in the various grades were taught simultaneously in what’s called a B-school and it wasn’t unusual that children in the lower grades had older siblings in the grades above. The school didn’t provide any meals, so the children brought their own food.

During primarily the first half of the 19th century, Högmarsö was characterized by lively social clubs and there were several stores on the island. There were also several open-air dance floors and people traveled all the way from Stockholm to enjoy themselves here. Accordion was the most popular musical instrument and both Jularbo and Olle Johnny came out to play—something that drove many people from the surrounding islands to Högmarsö. At Folkets Hus, IOGT had gatherings, jumble sales, and dance nights. At the Christmas parties held at Folkets Hus, you could count up to 100 kids.
The store Högmarsö Handel, which since 1968 has been open during the summer months, is run by the Bolinder family. The store was once started by August “the Merchant” Elfving, who at first had his shop in the basement of his residence. In 1916 the current store was built and was, for many years, run by Ann Mari Elfving. At times, a whole fleet of ships were tied up to the dock. It was Transportbolaget’s Baltic Sea fleet who were taking on fuel and stores. The sailors were at times visually intimidating, but most of them turned out to be nice men who were very interesting to talk to. They were all thirsty, so the “couches” holding 50 bottles of beer didn’t last long. The store was open every day year-round and during the summers, people lined up at 11 am when the boat from Stockholm dropped off fresh groceries. For a period of time, there was a second store on the island—Maria’s, which was located on the opposite side of the shipyard. Here was also a shoemaker and an antique store, and at the dock, fresh fish could be bought.

has two faces to turn to the passengers of the archiplago ferry. You either come through the inner route, traveling past the beautiful Ängsö national park and Hemmarö with Högmarsö Brygga on starboard side, surrounded by green sounds, flat rocks, lush forests and with green fields behind them. This trail is by many considered the most beautiful in the archipelago, and is trafficked by Waxholmsbolaget’s nestor “Skärgården”. You may also travel along Norrskär, depart from Furusundsleden at Aspö and in to the docks at Fursunds Slip. At the docks you will find a small grocery store and to its left is the shipyard with dust, smoke, large ships and carriers. The island’s inner parts are most beautiful with plenty of cultivated soil and archipelagic residences. The island’s main farmer, Ville Pettersson, is 83 years old and a healthy island man. Daniel Fallström lived here during one summer and wrote then, what all readers of the Public School Systems literature knows Framför mig på toften, sitter Ville Jansson, elva år ......

Today, Ville is over 60 years old and even if his current summer guests do not write poetry in his honor, his humour and helpfulness lives on in their hearts. A third farm on Högmarsö is owned by Hjalmar Gustavsson and the fourth by Alfred Elfving. Alfred’s mother, Madame Elfving, was one of the most well-known women in these parts of the archipelago. Whatever the matter might have been, people came to Madame Elfving for advice. Many of her children traveled abroad—a few of them to America—and all of them turned out happy. Out of those who stayed at Högmarsö, Adolf became a carpenter and August became a merchant. August ran the large store next to the shipyard. This property is now owned by his daughter Sonja and her husband Karl Ardenstedt. By naming the highly skilled shipbuilder, David Malm, the island’s most prominent residents have now been briefly introduced.

Newspaper article extracted fromKarin Ardenstedt's personal archive, probably from the 1950's.

(Source: Högmarsö, by the Göransson family, 1982)
    
With the purpose to improve and develop the great story.
Carita & Raffe - Caraff on Skeppsudden

Translated by: Johan Holmberg, Skeppsudden
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